Why I love Retinol and the How to Achieve Optimal Results
You might be familiar with Retinol, a popular skincare ingredient renowned for its ability to promote skin cell turnover and boost collagen production. I have personally seen remarkable results on both my own skin and my clients' skin, and today, I want to talk all about Retinol, a mighty hero ingredient that can help improve many skin conditions, including hyperpigmentation, dullness, enlarged pores, acne scars and loss of elasticity.
Since 2020, I've been using retinol every night, and I've seen significant improvements, particularly in my pore size and overall skin texture.
While retinol is an amazing ingredient, it's crucial to be aware of certain factors before adding it to your regimen. By the end of this post, you'll have a clear understanding of what retinol is, how it works, and how you can safely incorporate this wonderful ingredient into your routine for optimal results!
In this post,
What Is Retinol (Vitamin A) and Why Is It Important for the Skin?
Retinol, also known as vitamin A, is an essential nutrient for maintaining our body's overall health, including our skin. However, our body is unable to produce vitamin A on its own, making it necessary to obtain it through dietary sources or topical application on the skin.
With over 30 years of scientific backing, retinol has become a trusted and reliable ingredient in the skincare industry, confirming its effectiveness in maintaining healthy skin.
Retinol stands out among skincare ingredients, as it directly activates skin cells, revitalizing the cells and improving overall skin health.
(The only other active ingredients known to directly activate skin cells are Stem Cell Growth Factors and Exosomes, which can also trigger cellular activity and encourage skin cell regeneration. To learn more about these beneficial ingredients, check out my previous post ✨)
Aging and continuous UV exposure can deplete vitamin A levels in our skin, leading to reduced skin cell metabolism, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and loss of elasticity. Over time, this damage accumulates, often becoming more evident with age.
Retinol (Vitamin A) Benefits:
⭐️ Increases skin cell turnover and accelerates skin renewal
⭐️ Stimulates collagen production, improving skin elasticity and reducing fine lines
⭐️ Regulates excess oil production, unclogging pores and reducing acne and blackheads
⭐️ Reduces hyperpigmentation
⭐️ Improves skin texture
To understand how retinol impacts our skin, it is important to first understand the natural process of skin renewal. Skin cell turnover is the process through which our skin cells regenerate; in our 20s, the turnover rate is about 28 days, meaning new cells are formed and old cells are shed off roughly every 28 days. Aging leads to a slowdown in our skin cell metabolism, compounded by a progressive decline in Vitamin A levels in our skin. This decrease in metabolism results in slower skin cell turnover process, causing the generation of new skin cells and the shedding of dead cells on the surface to occur at a slower pace. This cycle continues to become longer and longer as we age, further contributing to the aging process of our skin.
Slower cell turnover rate leads to various skin concerns such as hyperpigmentation, slow-healing wounds, dullness, and reduced elasticity. In our 40s, it's about 45-60 days; and in our 50s, it increases to 60-90 days.
This is why it's crucial to stimulate our skin cell metabolism, helping normalize the turnover process as much as possible. But how can we accomplish this? This is where retinol comes to the rescue! 💪
Retinoids: Different Types of Vitamin-A Derived Ingredients
Fortunately, we can replenish the lost vitamin A by using topical skincare products.
But before we dive into how to do so, let's first understand the the different types of Retinoids. Retinoids are an umbrella term for vitamin A-related ingredients, such as:
Retinol: Retinol, the most well-known type of retinoid, is essentially pure vitamin A. Once absorbed into the skin, Retinol undergoes a conversion process involving naturally occurring enzymes. First, it converts to Retinal and then further transforms into Retinoic Acid.
Retinoic Acid is the active form of retinoids that directly acts on skin cells to increase turnover and stimulate collagen production. In simpler terms, the main goal of retinol is to transform into Retinoic Acid to deliver skin benefits.
Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin or Retin-A): This prescription-strength retinoid is the most potent form and directly interacts with skin cells to promote renewal and collagen production. When applied topically, Retinoic Acid doesn't require any conversion and immediately begins to work, which sets it apart from other retinoids that need one or more steps to convert into their active forms of Retinoic Acid. Due to its potency, however, Retinoic Acid frequently causes dryness and irritation especially for sensitive skin.
Retinal (Retinaldehyde): Retinal requires only one step to convert into Retinoic Acid upon absorption into the skin (unlike Retinol, which requires two steps). This makes Retinal a more potent option compared to Retinol, but with less irritation compared to Retinoic Acid.
Retinyl Esters (such as Retinyl Palmitate & Retinyl Linoleate): Retinyl Esters are considered the gentlest type of retinoid. They are retinol-derivatives that require three steps to convert into Retinoic Acid (Retinyl Ester → Retinol → Retinal → Retinoic Acid). Due to their mild nature and lower potency, Retinyl Esters are a suitable choice for beginners who are just starting with retinoid products and those with sensitive skin who may experience irritation from stronger retinoids.
This may all sound a bit complicated, but here's a simple way to understand the process:
Imagine all Retinoids as a team with one common objective: transforming into their active form called "Retinoic Acid". Once absorbed into the skin, the skin's naturally occurring enzymes enable this conversion process, with various retinoids going through different numbers of steps to become Retinoic Acid. The potency of each retinoid depends on the number of conversion steps involved in this process.
Dermatologists frequently prescribe Retinoic Acid, such as Tretinoin or Retin-A, for certain skin concerns, as it is the most potent form of retinoid. While effective for some people, many find it too harsh, leading to skin dehydration and irritation, particularly with long-term use. In my opinion, while Retinoic Acid can be a suitable short-term solution for treating stubborn acne or excess oil for certain individuals, prolonged use may cause unnecessary dryness and irritation.
This is why, in most cases, I recommend gentler Retinol-based products, as they typically include additional hydrating and soothing ingredients. Although stronger treatments using Tretinoin have their place, adopting a gentler approach can significantly enhance overall skin health for many people.
Similarly, some people with extremely sensitive skin might find Retinol too harsh. In such cases, alternatives like Retinyl Esters (e.g., Retinyl Palmitate), Bakuchiol (plant-based retinol alternative) or even stem cell growth factors can be excellent choices.
Incorporating Retinol into Your Routine
Autumn/winter can be an excellent time to incorporate retinol into your routine, especially if you haven't used it before. During autumn, the intensity of UV rays decreases, making it safer to use retinol, as it can increase sensitivity especially during the initial stages of use.
Important Precautions
⚠️ Retinoids, including Retinol, are not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women. However, a plant-based ingredient called Bakuchiol and stem cell growth factors serve as safe alternatives to retinol during these periods.
⚠️ Use only in the evening as retinol is sensitive to sunlight and quickly loses its effectiveness once exposed to the sun.
⚠️ Consistency and patience are key when it comes to retinol!
Make sure you introduce retinol slowly, giving your skin time to adjust and minimizing potential irritation that may occur especially in the beginning.
Retinoid reactions may include flaky skin, redness, itchiness, or temporary increase in breakouts. If this occurs, reduce the amount of retinol product (even just a single drop of serum may suffice at first), and gradually increase the amount over several weeks or even months.
Consistency with a smaller amount is more beneficial than frequently starting and stopping its use. Plus, you will see better results faster when you're consistent, even if you are using less than the full amount.
It is an advanced ingredient, and everyone's skin reacts differently especially during the initial stages of use. With patience and care, however, retinol can effectively energize your skin at a cellular level, brightening, smoothing, and tightening your skin.
Japanese Retinol Serum
AC Glow Essence is a perfect addition for your routine if you are looking for a great retinol product. In addition to retinol, this Japanese retinol serum contains soothing and hydrating ingredients, such as Squalane and Hyaluronic Acid. These ingredients are encapsulated into liposomal capsules to enhance absorption into the skin, which helps prevent or ease potential reactions that may occur with retinol use.
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In the evening, after washing your face and applying a toner or any other serums you may be using,
Apply an appropriate amount of AC Glow, either mixed with your moisturizer or directly to your skin on its own, depending on your retinol tolerance level.
Retinoid reactions may take time to appear, so use a small amount of the product for about 2 weeks and observe how your skin responds. Everyone's skin reacts differently to retinol, so it's essential to customize your approach.
Once your skin adapts to the product, you can gradually increase the amount used, eventually applying a full droplet every night. Additionally, you can apply AC Glow directly to your skin without mixing it with your moisturizer.
Consultation available: To ensure proper usage and address any concerns or questions, I offer consultation via email, DM, phone, or FaceTime to help guide you through the process. Message me if you have any questions.
Takeaway
Retinol (Vitamin A) is a versatile ingredient effective for many skin concerns.
Retinol speeds up skin cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, and controls excess oil, resulting in a healthy, glowing skin.
To make the most of retinol and prevent potential reactions, keep the following key takeaways in mind:
Retinol comes in different forms, with Retinoic Acid being the strongest and potentially irritating. Depending on your tolerance level, opt for gentler Retinol-based products with added hydrating and soothing ingredients for optimal skin health.
Consistency and patience are key. Begin with a small amount of retinol product and observe your skin's reactions for a few weeks, gradually increasing the amount as tolerated. If you start to see uncomfortable reactions, reduce the amount (only a small amount will do) or frequency (every night → every other night etc) until your skin is more accustomed to retinol. For best results, use a small amount consistently to achieve faster, more effective outcomes.
Consider retinol alternatives such as Bakuchiol or growth factors, if pregnant or breastfeeding.
Incorporate retinol products into your nighttime skincare routine to protect their efficacy from sunlight and potential degradation.
I have experienced firsthand the transformative effects of retinol on my skin, and I've witnessed remarkable results among my clients as well. Retinol is a powerful tool in achieving a glowing, radiant complexion, and with patience, it can significantly improve your skin's appearance.
I hope this overview has provided valuable insights into the benefits of retinol and encourages you to incorporate it into your skincare routine.
Please don't hesitate to reach out if you have any further questions!
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